Slowing down on the MotoGP 22 game can be tricky, especially to newcomers. But fret not, here’s a guide to the best braking practices on two wheels.
Going fast isn’t just a case of cracking open the throttle as soon as possible, slowing down properly is also key to a rapid lap time – as weird as that sounds.
Braking in the MotoGP 22 video game feels very different compared to previous games. People had trouble with MotoGP 21’s braking to the extent that I wrote an article on this very site with some braking tips. Now I’m back to give tips on braking for the latest iteration.
I’ve already had plenty of comments and messages asking how to brake on the new game, so sit back, slow down and hit that apex.
As previously mentioned, the braking on MotoGP 22 feels different to the last two official Motorcycle Grand Prix games.
It will take practice to get the knack, bear that in mind.
Of course, if you’re starting off as a newcomer to the series, I would highly suggest tackling the tutorials first. Auto brake is available, but it isn’t great, as it slows down too early and you’ll struggle to overtake with it switched on.
Assisted front brake and brake input modulation helps by adjusting your brake pressure so you’re not too aggressive or going into a stoppie and is worth a test, too.
A lack of joint brakes
Joint brakes have been removed in MotoGP 22 for an unknown reason – previously, you could simply mash one of the controller’s triggers and both the front and rear brakes would be applied, but no more.
If you are used to using them, you’re going to have to get adapt to applying the front and rear brake independently.
On a PlayStation controller, the front brake is with L2 and the rear brake Cross. On an Xbox controller, this is LT and A.
Sidenote, this guide is for PC, PlayStation and Xbox riders, and not the digital Nintendo Switch inputs.
On your marks!
After taking on the tutorial the next thing to do is to learn your braking markers, these are visual indicators around each track that you can use as a reference for where you should start braking.
Most of the tracks have braking markers represented as white horizontal lines alongside the kerbs, but in some corners, you will find there are lacking. In this scenario, you must use other visual reference points.
Take the new Mandalika circuit, for example, where Turn 10 is a tight right-hander, requiring heavy braking from high speed, but there are no braking markers. There are however lamp posts on the left-hand side of the track, use these as your braking marker.
Moto3, Moto2 and MotoGP all feel different compared to previous years, with the braking which is why I’m going to cover all three categories.
Moto3 braking advice
The Moto3 bikes are almost as difficult to stop as the MotoGP bikes in the MotoGP 22 game, not because of how fast you’re going but because of how far you have to push to get good lap times out of them.
Keeping your corner speed high is key and so is late braking. You will find that in hard braking zones the rear wheel will come up in the air, otherwise known as a stoppie.
This wasn’t an issue for the Moto3 bikes in MotoGP 21 but be wary that it can happen in the current title.
The rear brake is also pretty powerful for the Moto3 bikes meaning if you’re not careful the rear will lock and come round on you causing you to crash. Awkward.
Also bear in mind that using a significant amount of engine braking can cause you to lose control under braking, so I would suggest setting the engine braking to three or less via the on-screen options using the D-pad.
Avoiding a Moto3 stoppie
The best way to get one of these motorcycles stopped is to be smooth with your front brake, as going straight to full brake pressure will cause a stoppie and then you can’t turn into the corner.
You won’t need full brake pressure for every corner, of course, but for a hairpin, for example, you want to get to full brake pressure quickly without just slamming it on straight away. It’s also a good idea to pull back on the left analogue stick to move your rider’s weight backwards, helping to keep the rear of the bike on the floor.
If you’re using manual gears you’ll want to start shifting down while braking, but again, don’t do this too quickly as the rear will lose traction and come round on you. Once you’re in the right gear and you’ve slowed down sufficiently, it’s time to ease off the brake pressure and start tipping into the corner.
Tap the rear brake in case of emergency
At this point, if you have full brake pressure applied, you won’t be able to tip in very easily and this will cause you to run wide and miss the apex. You can of course trail brake into the corners, providing you’re not using too much front brake.
If you find yourself going into a corner a bit too hot, you can use the rear brake to help slow you down but just by tapping the appropriate button instead of holding it down, otherwise, the rear will lose traction and you’ll likely crash. Again.
Put all these methods together and you’ll be tackling the corners with ease!
Moto2 braking advice
Strangely I find braking for Moto2 easier than the other two classes – everything just feels smoother.
The rear brake is much more useful and you can get away with being a bit more aggressive. For the engine braking setting, you can go up to four without too many issues.
The braking techniques from Moto3 still apply here, however, only this time you will need to adjust your braking markers by braking earlier than when on a 250cc machine.
Adjust your Moto2 rider’s posture
For the harder braking areas you should still pull back on the left analogue stick to minimise stoppies, but you can shift down the gears quicker than on a Moto3 motorbike without worrying too much about the rear coming around on you.
So, apply the front brake, pull back on the left analogue stick, apply the rear brake if you need to, shift down the gears to your required cog, ease off the front brake and release the rear brake, then tip into the corner. Simple, right?
Again, trying to tip into a corner with full brake pressure will cause you issues, use the rear brake to close the line if you are a bit wide.
MotoGP category braking tips
This is the class a lot of people are having trouble with under braking. The MotoGP bikes are much more powerful than the Moto3 and Moto2 vehicles, and that means they are harder to stop.
Again, adjustments to your braking markers will be required as you will be slowing down earlier than both Moto2 and Moto3 due to the extra speed.
Brake disc selection
You will also have to select the correct brake discs for each track pre-event. Using the incorrect brake disc will mean they will either overheat or they will be too cold, both will result in you struggling to stop the bike for corners.
If you’re unsure which brake discs to use, look out for the white lightbulb icon in the brake disc selection screen, as this suggests the optimal setup.
Avoiding a MotoGP class stoppie
Stoppies are still possible when you’re pushing but they aren’t as exaggerated or as frequent as in the MotoGP 21 game, thankfully.
If you do find yourself in a stoppie the best way to lower the rear of the bike is by releasing the front brake pressure by about half. You will of course still run wide – and depending on how quickly you get the rear back on the track, you may even run off track altogether – but the key is not to panic when you’re in a stoppie. If you hurriedly over-correct, you’re more than likely to go all the way over the handlebars.
It’s worth remembering that when you are mid-stoppie you won’t be able to turn into the corner so just concentrate on getting the rear wheel on the ground first.
Recording from a tank slapper
A new braking problem you may find yourself in on MotoGP 22 is a ‘tank slapper’. This can occur if you’re too aggressive turning into the corner and applying too much front brake. The front will momentarily lock and you will end up in a violent wobble.
This caught me out a couple of times when the game first came out, but don’t worry you can recover from it. Just like in a stoppie you can exit a tank slapper by releasing the front brake as much as you can. Also, you will need to try to keep as upright as possible by counter steering – moving the left analogue stick in the opposite direction to the tank slapper. Eventually, the bike will calm down and you can continue.
Smooth as silk
Using the techniques you’ve learnt from Moto3 and Moto2 will help in the MotoGP category – being smooth is key. Under heavy braking, try to keep the bike as upright as possible as this will help slow you down and maintain control.
Apply the front brake swiftly but smoothly, add a bit of rear brake if you wish, shift the rider’s weight back with the left analogue stick and shift down the gears until you reach the required one. You can shift down the gears quickly in MotoGP without consequence.
When you’re in the right gear and you’ve slowed down sufficiently start to release the brakes so you can tip into the corner, trail brake in until you hit the apex then release the brake completely.
Practice makes perfect
As obvious as it sounds, practising really will help a lot, the more laps you do the better understanding you will have of how and when to brake, and then it will become second nature.
I’m always asked how I know where to brake on all the tracks and it all comes down to the amount of practice I’ve done over the years.
The in-game MotoGP Academy will help you increase your pace too, so don’t discard this mode.
Your controller is providing feedback, so if it’s vibrating when you’re trail braking it’s telling you you’re close to crashing! Don’t ignore this, either.
Just remember we’ve all got to start somewhere and some people will pick it up quicker than others, but don’t be disheartened, keep at it and you’ll be nailing those apices in no time.